3 Xmas Recipes from Star Chef | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd December 23, 2011

Zibibbo’s Adam Newell was the latest chef to grace the demonstration kitchen at Wellington's city market. Having photographed A Consuming Passion, the first cookbook by Newell a few years ago, I was keen to see him in action again. Newell introduced three recipes which included two versions of en’papillote - French for “in parchment”, and a caponata.

Cooking class at Wellington's City Market

While chatting and chopping his way through the caponata, Newell reflected on changes in New Zealand’s restaurant food. He believes the fusion of the 90’s “should be illegal”, (my wife calls the same phase ‘confusion’). He went on to say the scene is now about emphasising seasonal ingredients and not about playing around with the food too much. Newell reckons we’ve even caught up with Europe – a slightly optimistic view to me.

The first of two en’ papillotes involved salmon sourced from a passionate Akaroa Fishery Newell said he would be serving this at Christmas, leaving his mother-in-law to deal to the turkey.

The BBQ class was billed by the City Market as the Thriller in Manila . While struggling to see the link with boxing I guess it could have been the vanilla which received rave reviews by Newell. It’s used in the sugar syrup poured into the en’ papillote and Newell says the dish screams “eat me, eat me, its summer” as the perfumed steam envelops the diner once the parcel is opened on a plate.

En Papillote salmon and caponata at Wellington's City Market

The dessert can be made up to one hour ahead of time and Newell says his chefs at Zibibbo know they are in for a busy night if the en’ papillote is on the specials list (not being a cold pre-prepared dish).

The guests enjoyed being served by the Michelin starred chef (one of only two in New Zealand) as Newell delivered the fragrant packages to the tables. Scents of fennel, thyme and fish were followed by fruity fragrances and hints of mulled wine as the gathering pierced the sealed parcels and munched away happily. The $25000 Gaggenau kitchen stood up to the BBQ test well, easily competing with the hooded cookers that will be seen in most kiwi backyards this summer.

Al Brown Fires up at Springfield | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd October 14, 2011

Fresh from opening Depot - his Auckland restaurant, Al Brown arrived at Ruth Pretty’s garden room to promote his new book Stroked.

Al Browns book Stoked, at Ruth Pretty garden room

In front of a small gathering in his trademark laid back style Brown talked about his backyard, his TV show, and more.

Al Brown talking about his new book Stoked

As guests ate their way through tasty morsels including chargrilled tuatuas (actually it was a gas barbeque), smoked kahawai potato cakes and marshmellow caramel muesli slice, Brown explained his philosophy on food.

It’s about savouring the journey to the plate; the prep, slowing down and enjoying. “By the time food arrives on a plate its dead”. Fitting with this philosophy Stoked is about cooking on an open fire (preferably your own hunter-gathered produce). A stark contrast he says to books of recipes containing only four ingredients, ten minute meals, and frozen sushi.

Pulled pork sandwiches with apple coleslaw

Al Brown talking at Ruth Pretty's Springfield in New Zealand.

As Brown munched on a pulled pork sandwich (with apple cider slaw) he described his own backyard on the South Coast of Wellington; the big outdoor fire, a wood-fired oven, a chargrill, a Japanese teppanyaki plate and yet another oven that acts as a warmer. A set up Brown says was designed “to take cooking classes for Khandallah housewives if the phone didn’t ring after leaving Logan Brown”.

Despite a packed programme Brown has created a winning combination in his new Auckland establishment. Depot seats 70 and is already doing 300-400 meals a day. No dots on plates, formality left at the door and serving wine ‘on tap' are some of the markers of this fresh restaurant. Underlining Brown’s approach to food, Depot’s current menu includes freshly shucked oysters and cockles, wild pork salami, wild rabbit rillettes, kahawai, snapper, kingfish and food cooked over charcoal or hardwood.

Unfortunately for Wellington, a Depot style restaurant will not be arriving anytime soon. Brown says this is partly the due to the capital’s smaller population, but also to his vision of expanding into Australia. The audience left the garden room warm and contented with Stoked. They’ll be lighting their own fires.

Meat and Veges at Rugby WC | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd October 10, 2011

Food heros of Welsh culture were spotted amid a sea of green wigs, and floating red dragons at Saturdays RWC game between Wales and the Irish. The leek, an emblem of Wales since the mid 16 th century, is often referred to in relation to St David's day on March 1st, but also has links to Welsh rugby,

Lamb (or were they sheep?) is revered in Wales in a similar way to lamb in New Zealand.

I am not sure what part of Welsh culture the chicken stands for but the guy on the left arrived in New Zealand with not much more than this suit...

Welsh fans in chicken suits at Wales vs Ireland RWC game in Wellington

The dragon got hungry - Wales 22, Ireland 10

Malaysian Night Market at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd August 24, 2011

Described as the “Jamie Oliver of Malaysian cooking”, Chef Wan was the undoubted star of the inaugural Wellington Malaysia Kitchen Night Market. A household name in Asia , crowds clamoured to hear him speak about and cook traditional Malaysian food. The packed audience included a very excited Lauren King, who was one of the lucky recipients of Chef Wan's demonstration dish Vermicelli Kerabu.

Held in one half of the cramped Opera House Lane, the market was the finale of this years Wellington On A Plate. Wan’s excited commentary (see him in action here), broadcast at full volume, contrasted with the slow moving crowds waiting for their fix of Malaysian cuisine.

Working under intense pressure the chefs from Kayu Manis, Rasa, The Long Bar and other Wellington Malaysian restaurants still managed to serve up delicious char grilled satay sticks, curry puffs, rendangs and gorengs ...

...the menus however lacked the real diversity I expected of Malaysian street food. This was a probably a reflection on having only a small number of stands to feed the heaving crowds quickly (the event ran for 3 hrs), with easily identified food.

The fundamental aim of Wellington On A Plate is to attract foodie tourists. Air Asia X ‘s arrival to NZ has seen a dramatic increase in Malaysian visitors to NZ (1300 to 5000 monthly in Christchurch) – no doubt coming for the clean green scenery. Likewise, tourism from NZ to Malaysia has increased markedly. I applaud the organisers of the Kitchen Night Market for getting involved with WOAP for the first time, but there is room to put Malaysian street food on a larger stage, with more variety and enthusiastic crowds in the future.

Happy Feet the penguin, at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd August 20, 2011

Raw meat, furry tails and live insects were on the menu at a recent Ruth Pretty Catering event. In weather more appropriate for emperor penguins, Wellington Zoo was host to the Ruth Pretty Zoo Safari, part of Wellington on a Plate. Perhaps reluctantly swapping the heated floor of Kamala’s, the swish new zoo venue (named after the zoo's last elephant), the visitors were soon being educated about animal diets in the zoo kitchen.

Possum tails hang out of bucket at Zoo Safari at Wellington on a plate

Ruth Pretty introducing the Zoo Safari as part of Wellington on a plate

Slabs of horse meat, goat legs - fur and all, and live locusts were all sighted, but most interest centered on chimpanzee food. Paul Horton, the carnivore keeper said “chimps are pretty much like us, they will happily kill a monkey and share it around”, dispelling any thoughts about vegetarian diets. As well as fruit and veges, the chimps are occasionally fed whole chickens, cooked, to avoid salmonella. Bread used to be part of the chimp diet until Jess, a female, took such a liking to it she upsized to become the largest chimp in the tribe – not the normal way of things in the ape world.

Climatic extremes continued on a short tour of the zoo, taking in Happy Feet the emperor penguin, and Sasa and Sean the sun bears. Happy Feet tentatively looked like coming out and diving into the pool (a zoo first), but after dipping a ‘toe’ into the water, turned around, and waddled back inside.

In a similar manner the guests made their way back to the warmth of Kamala’s where a South African high tea awaited.

Food prep at the Zoo Safari at Wellington on a plate

The safari themes were continued with the menu including biltong, hertzoggies, and snoek pate and wait, was that…Dr Livingston I presume?

Vegan Pavlova Recipe at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd August 17, 2011

“The world’s first vegan pavlova!” claimed Professor Kent Kirshenbaum, while giving a presentation at Ruth Pretty’s unscheduled WOAP event. He thought he may have also produced New Zealand’s first vegan meringues, but was surprised to find Angel foods (an Auckland-based vegan supplier) had beat him to it. Kirshenbaum, a New Yorker, was in New Zealand to help celebrate the 2011 Year of Chemistry.

Luxuriating in the space the commercial kitchen provided, Kirshenbaum and his assistant Anne McBride took us on a world tour of mysterious ingredients. First was the Chilean Quillaja Saponaria- its soapy properties can be used to make extra head on low alcohol beer, fire fighting foam and of course the vegan meringues. The inner bark of this tree has also been linked to methane reduction in dairy cows and lowering of cholesterol in humans.

After being served an unusual warm syrupy drink by Ruth Pretty, the Professor introduced us to Salepli Dondurma the Anatolian stretchy ice cream. The stretch ingredient in the ice cream is called salep and is derived from rare Turkish orchids – so rare the Turkish authorities have banned the export of this plant extract. I found out my syrupy drink was made with salep – apparently sourced in Wellington!

Not deterred by the unavailability of salep Kirshenbaum and McBride zapped us up a topping for the meringues using versawhip, xanthan gum, sugar and raspberry sauce. Xanthan gum also has links with our dairy industry as it can be derived from whey, the by-product of cheese making. We got to eat the raspberry-topped meringues (recipe is below) – the dessert had good texture but the herbaceous taste of the meringue had me thinking I’ll stick to egg whites.

The Professor had clearly done his research on New Zealand, with his next topic being the barbecue. Obsessed with the smoky flavours of the BBQ, but unable to use one at his apartment (“I’d be arrested in New York if I started one”), Kirshenbaum was drawn to analyse liquid smoke. He deduced it is probably safer to use than untreated-wood smoke due to the carcinogens being removed. Could this be the end of this bastion of New Zealand culture?

The perfect steak? The exact time for a fillet of salmon? Precise times for cooking an egg? Try out sous vide cooking (precise temperature control). How about reductions without heat, centrifuges and rotovaps - it all sounds like science fiction but science in the kitchen is already nearby - think Martin Bosley, Ferren Adria, and Hesten Blumenthal. For more about molecular gastronomy check the Experimental kitchen collective headed up by the very engaging Professor Kent Kirshenbaum.

Recipe for vegan meringues

Mix 60ml water with 3ml quillaja saponaria
Add 5ml lemon juice and 15ml Campari
Beat to form soft peaks, then add 65g granulated sugar one spoonful at a time until stiff peaks form. Sift in 40g confectioners’ sugar and quickly beat to disperse.
Spoon meringue on to baking sheet lined with parchment paper
Bake at 225F for 1 hour, then turn oven off and let meringues cool for 1.5hrs.

Top Wine and Rata Trees at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd August 9, 2011

Woman in red gumboots plants a Rata Tree at WOAP.

Gumboots and spades replaced surgical tools at Wellington on a Plate's first environmentaly themed event.

Baby Rata trees (and other native varieties) were dispensed to participants for planting on the site of Newtown's former fever hospital. The assembled crowd who braved the conditions (sunny but cool) were warmed up by french onion soup, part of a Ruth Pretty hamper.

Ruth Pretty serves soup at WOAP Crimson Lunch

Ruth Pretty with two chefs at Crimson Lunch a WOAP Event

Ata Rangi wines including Crimson Pinot Noir further fortified the visitors. Ruud Kleinpaste provided a humorous commentary with his view on ecological leadership in our community before releasing his giant weta among the crowd.

Bottles of Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir at WOAP event.

Guests at WOAP Crimson Lunch, a WOAP Event.

The planting of the young rata trees (supplied by Ata Rangi) continues the six year partnership with Project Crimson. The trees were planted, guests were packed off with gifts, leaving behind the promise of a blush of crimson colour unrelated to the medical history of this Wellington site.

Rob Morrison and Burton Silver talking at Crimson lunch, a Ruth Pretty WOAP event.

Helen Masters with Rata Tree at the WOAP Crimson Lunch sponsered by Ata rangi, Ruth Pretty and Project Crimson.

Phyll Pattie and Clive Paton planting a Rata Tree at Crimson Lunch a WOAP Event in Wellington,NZ.

Gift bags at WOAP Crimson Lunch in Wellington.

NZ Cuisine to the fore at TRENZ | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd June 12, 2011

What impressed me the most when I photographed TRENZ in Queenstown this year was the food and wine. Local caterer Flying Trestles was hired to feed 1100 exhibitors, media and buyers lunch and tea breaks throughout the four day international tourism showcase. Divine looking salad platters such as wild rice, fennel and hazelnut or tomato, bocconcini and eggplant were complemented by hot dishes of venison denver leg, kumara and lamb pies, blue cod, and more. All washed down by fine New Zealand wine (mostly from Central Otago). For dessert huge cake stands were festooned with tiny chocolate mousse cups, lemon tarts, lamingtons or miniature meringues. Lavish lunchboxes including Mediterranean salad, Turkish rolls, sushi, locally made Patagonia chocolates and Phoenix organic juice were provided one day when the vistors were taken on "famils" with the Queenstown tourism operators. Even the muffins at morning coffee provided a mouth full of excitement.

At a regular TRENZ social event the Regional Rendevous, the country's regional marketing agencies put their best foot forward presenting wines by Quartz Reef (including the fab Methode Traditionelle), Peregrine, Akarua, Astrolabe, Gibbston Valley, Mt Difficulty and Two Paddocks (complete with Sam Neil), Te Kairanga and Te Whau. Among the many pass-around foods were whitebait fritters from the West Coast and shavings from whole rounds of Balfour cheese from Gibbston Valley Cheese.

Gold medal Gibbston Valley cheese at TRENZ in Queenstown,NZ.

At tea breaks professional chefs from luxury operators put on cooking demonstrations for eager viewers who then got to sample the meals. The menus included Dale Gartlands' (Matakauri Lodge) Aoraki salmon, crayfish tortellini, scampi and chervil dressing and a Kiwiana intepretation of NZ by Sadie Richens (Millbrook) with the dessert called Hokey Pokey pavalova islands.

TRENZ visitors getting lunch in Queenstown

On the exhibition floor the Prime Minister and his entourage were handed out Roxborough dried apricots by the Central Otago operators. There was a new exhibit from Zealong Tea, the Waikato organic tea operation and a move to the national stage for Zest Food Tours now touring in Auckland as well as Wellington. Bon apetite New Zealand!

Madhur Jaffrey High Tea in Te Horo | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd May 21, 2011

Madhur Jaffery inspecting an old cookbook

Guests mingled in anticipation of the arrival of food royalty, Madhur Jaffrey to a book signing at Ruth Pretty's Garden Room. Imbibing hot spiced tea and munching muthries the gathering perused a selection of Jaffrey's extensive range of cookbooks.

Having arrived at Wellington airport only a couple of hours previous the spritely 78 year old was greeted with loud applause. She then spoke eloquently about her personal and public life. Meanwhile exotic food and drinks circulated. The recipes including dates, seekh lamb kebabs, cheera and shaka para were each from a different Madhur Jaffrey cookbook.

The golden sun enriched the already vibrant colours of the Garden Room, decorated for the occasion by the Ruth Pretty Catering crew. The setting struck a poignant note when Jaffrey said her biggest regret is not spending as much time as she would like in her own garden.

Wild Food Festival Photos | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd February 21, 2011

The famous Wild Foods Festival is a shock awaiting anyone used to romantic farmers' markets or sterilised supermarket offerings. On the menu one year you could get a shot of horse semen washed down with Red Bull. Among the culinary highlights on my last visit were seagulls bottoms, bull's penis sausages (3000 made from 40kgs), worm slammers (rumour had it the worms were sourced from a local graveyard), and live or chocolate coated huhu grubs.

The more restrained dishes on offer included sliced, pickled fern trunks, whitebait in various guises, and Hoki -Tikka from the local Indian curry house. Wild indeed.

Prize winning cupcakes at NZ show | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd January 29, 2011

The highlight for me at the Levin A&P show last week was the Home Industry display. In amongst the Christmas puddings, fruitcakes and scones were two entries for cupcakes. I was told this was only the second year cupcakes had been accepted, perhaps reflecting the slow pace of change away from the city (where all the talk has now switched to macaroons).

Other highlights were the jams, and vegetable creations. Outside in the pens was the usual fluttering of ribbons amongst the winning pigs, chickens, sheep and cattle. However I noticed the prizewinning export lambs were not getting carried away by their win. For those technology buffs - I photographed the A&P show on an old Mamiya C330 Twin Lens Reflex camera using roll film.

Sign advertising home industries at Levin A&P show in New Zealand

Prize winning cupcakes at A&P Show in Levin, New Zealand.

Shepherds Shemozle in Hunterville | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd October 27, 2010

In Hunterville around Oct/Nov is one of the highlights on New Zealand's event calendar. The day features the Miss Hunterway Competition - "a beauty show for real bitches", a Dog barking sound off and the Shepherds' Shemozzle - a race pitting man and dog against other men and dogs along a fear factor type course (they do one for kids as well). In the past the notorious food stop has included - sheep eyes, pints of cream, bread buns, raw eggs, pints of beer, freshly dug carrots (with dirt), warm coca cola, bulls testicles, and vinegar. The food is expected to be forced down at the food stop as fast as possible by red-faced shepherds having just run/jumped and crawled several kilometers with their ever faithful dogs beside them all the way.

Food Photography on the Move | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd October 20, 2010

Events are always places you find food on the move. Recently I was providing photography at an event at the Langham Hotel in Auckland and pointed my camera at food on the move. The results of the photographs are always random using long exposures - maybe 15th or 1/8th of a second and panning the camera while keeping the food in focus. The photographs seem to suit this method as it matches the waiters streaming into the room delivering plates of fine New Zealand food to the awaiting guests.

Food on the move at the Langham Hotel in Auckland

Food on the move at Logan Brown Restaurant

Waiters carrying food at Pinot Noir Conference, an event in Wellington celebrating New Zealand Pinot noir

Dwali Festival Food in Wgtn | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd October 8, 2010

Flag flying at Dwali Festival in Wgtn, New Zealand.

For a slice of India in Wellington you could go to a restaurant but a more authentic experience is the local Diwali Festival held each year in Wellington and Auckland. Although nicknamed the 'festival of lights', for me the undoubted highlight is the food and the frenzy that goes with it.