The scent of Andalucía, described as bitter and lumpy arrived in my studio recently. Hard to source in New Zealand, it was a surprise to find the Seville oranges had originated from an orchard in Whenuapai.

Jennifer and Roy Taylor, who in the past made jams and chutneys under the Forgotten Fruits label, now deal exclusively with 65 Seville orange trees. Regarded as THE marmalade orange (do not eat!), the Seville oranges are named as such because there are thousands of these trees lining the ‘calles’ of this beautiful Spanish city.

Encouraged to make marmalade (for the first time) I hauled out Jane Grigson’s recipe for whole orange marmalade. It all seemed straight forward until I got to the line “boil vigorously for 10 minutes”. Great I thought - it will be done before dinner. Wrong. It was after 10pm before the jars were being filled.

However the dark, flavoursome brew spread on the next morning’s toast made the effort well worthwhile.

Try your luck on Trademe when the oranges are in season around September each year.