3 Xmas Recipes from Star Chef | Murray Lloyd Photography

Zibibbo’s Adam Newell was the latest chef to grace the demonstration kitchen at Wellington's city market. Having photographed A Consuming Passion, the first cookbook by Newell a few years ago, I was keen to see him in action again. Newell introduced three recipes which included two versions of en’papillote - French for “in parchment”, and a caponata.

Cooking class at Wellington's City Market

While chatting and chopping his way through the caponata, Newell reflected on changes in New Zealand’s restaurant food.  He believes the fusion of the 90’s “should be illegal”, (my wife calls the same phase ‘confusion’). He went on to say the scene is now about emphasising seasonal ingredients and not about playing around with the food too much. Newell reckons we’ve even caught up with Europe – a slightly optimistic view to me.

Fresh New Zealand Salmon

The first of two en’ papillotes involved salmon sourced from a passionate Akaroa Fishery  Newell said he would be serving this at Christmas, leaving his mother-in-law to deal to the turkey.

Adam preparing at the market

The BBQ class was billed by the City Market as the Thriller in Manila . While struggling to see the link with boxing I guess it could have been the vanilla which received rave reviews by Newell. It’s used in the sugar syrup poured into the en’ papillote and Newell says the dish screams “eat me, eat me, its summer” as the perfumed steam envelops the diner once the parcel is opened on a plate.

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en Papillote summer fruit

En Papillote salmon and caponata at Wellington's City Market

The dessert can be made up to one hour ahead of time and Newell says his chefs at Zibibbo know they are in for a busy night if the en’ papillote is on the specials list (not being a cold pre-prepared dish).

The guests enjoyed being served by the Michelin starred chef (one of only two in New Zealand) as Newell delivered the fragrant packages to the tables. Scents of fennel, thyme and fish were followed by fruity fragrances and hints of mulled wine as the gathering pierced the sealed parcels and munched away happily. The $25000 Gaggenau kitchen stood up to the BBQ test well, easily competing with the hooded cookers that will be seen in most kiwi backyards this summer.

Murellen Pork in Canterbury | Murray Lloyd Photography

Following my blog in July celebrating the best ham we and our guests have ever eaten it was a pleasure last week to visit Canterbury’s Murellen Pork, birth place of the 21st Birthday ham.

Expecting the high pitched squeal of pigs on arrival I was surprised not to hear a peep from the grunters. Located in the lee of Mount Torlesse just out of Sheffield, this resplendent piggery sits on 20 acres of mostly glossy green grass.

Murrellen Pork was set up in 1999 by Murray and Helen Battersby (hence the name - Murr-ellen).  After farming pigs in the area for 40 years the couple realised to upsize the operation they could either focus on quantity or quality – and chose the latter. Now managed by son Colin and wife Karen, Murrellen Pork farms around 1500 pigs at any one time. Colin says this number means they can keep the ‘owner operator’ feel of the business.

Like a Wellington team management text, the farming practice is built around reducing stress. Some techniques follow the research of Temple Grandin, famous for her extraordinary knowledge of animal behavior. The entire supply line has been analysed and set up to avoid stressing the animals unnecessarily. For example the pigs are trucked to Timaru for processing via State Highway 50, instead of State Highway 1. This is not for the scenery but because the truck only needs to stop twice on the way. Every stop on a journey arouses the pigs and they get stressed! On the farm round feeders are used instead of straight designs. Pigs have narrow vision and being able to keep an eye on the pigs on each side while eating allows for a more relaxed mealtime and improves nutrition intake. Other measures include PH analysis of the meat and temperature control of the pig enclosures..

While being fattened up at the Murrellen premises the pigs are initially housed in mobile pens (the piglets arrive from a free range supplier) before shifting to a larger facility for the final five weeks. In a similar manner to Joel Salatin mobile chook houses (as described in the book the Omnivores Dilemma these pens are regularly dragged onto a fresh patch of grass with the resulting rich effluent spread to fertilise new grass and enormous worm farms. The pigs are fed a locally produced vegetarian diet which supports the mobile self-fertilising system.

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Pigs in pen in New Zealand

The effect of the Canterbury earthquakes on Murrellen has been twofold. Restaurant closures in Christchurch meant a substantial drop off in demand and Murrellen’s office, and the historic house where Colin and Karen live will probably be demolished.

If you are after New Zealand pork, charcuterie or other piggy offcuts, Murrellen’s produce can be sourced via discerning Christchurch and Wellington butchers. They include Ashby’s in Christchurch which won the best bacon award in 2011 with Ashby’s Murrellen dry cured bacon, and Waikanae Butchery who was the Gold Medal Winner (Pork category) in The Great New Zealand Sausage Competition 2009.

Al Brown Fires up at Springfield | Murray Lloyd Photography

Fresh from opening Depot - his Auckland restaurant, Al Brown arrived at Ruth Pretty’s garden room to promote his new book Stroked.

Al Browns book Stoked, at Ruth Pretty garden room

In front of a small gathering in his trademark laid back style Brown talked about his backyard, his TV show, and more.

Al Brown and Ruth Pretty

Al Brown talking about his new book Stoked

As guests ate their way through tasty morsels including chargrilled tuatuas (actually it was a gas barbeque), smoked kahawai potato cakes and marshmellow caramel muesli slice, Brown explained his philosophy on food.

Barbecued Tuatuas

It’s about savouring the journey to the plate; the prep, slowing down and enjoying. “By the time food arrives on a plate its dead”.  Fitting with this philosophy Stoked is about cooking on an open fire (preferably your own hunter-gathered produce). A stark contrast he says to books of recipes containing only four ingredients, ten minute meals, and frozen sushi.

Pulled pork sandwiches with apple coleslaw

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Al Brown talking at Ruth Pretty's Springfield in New Zealand.

As Brown munched on a pulled pork sandwich (with apple cider slaw) he described his own backyard on the South Coast of Wellington; the big outdoor fire, a wood-fired oven, a chargrill, a Japanese teppanyaki plate and yet another oven that acts as a warmer.  A set up Brown says was designed “to take cooking classes for Khandallah housewives if the phone didn’t ring after leaving Logan Brown”.

Al Brown's marshmellow caramel slice

Despite a packed programme Brown has created a winning combination in his new Auckland establishment.  Depot seats 70 and is already doing 300-400 meals a day. No dots on plates, formality left at the door and serving wine ‘on tap' are some of the markers of this fresh restaurant. Underlining Brown’s approach to food, Depot’s current menu includes freshly shucked oysters and cockles, wild pork salami, wild rabbit rillettes, kahawai, snapper, kingfish and food cooked over charcoal or hardwood.

Unfortunately for Wellington, a Depot style restaurant will not be arriving anytime soon.  Brown says this is partly the due to the capital’s smaller population, but also to his vision of expanding into Australia.  The audience left the garden room warm and contented with Stoked. They’ll be lighting their own fires.

Meat and Veges at Rugby WC | Murray Lloyd Photography

Food heros of Welsh culture were spotted amid a sea of green wigs, and floating red dragons at Saturdays RWC game between Wales and the Irish.  The leek, an emblem of Wales since the mid 16 th century, is often referred to in relation to St David's day on March 1st, but also has links to Welsh rugby,

Lamb (or were they sheep?) is revered in Wales in a similar way to lamb in New Zealand.

I am not sure what part of Welsh culture the chicken stands for but the guy on the left arrived in New Zealand with not much more than this suit...

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Welsh fans in chicken suits at Wales vs Ireland RWC game in Wellington

The dragon got hungry - Wales 22, Ireland 10

Rex Morgan - Meats at the Market | Murray Lloyd Photography

Venison Carpaccio, sirloin steak and lamb pie were all on the menu at Wellington’s city market on Sunday morning. Chef Rex Morgan of Boulcott Bistro presented the "Meat your Maker” class in front of 20 eager participants who paid $50 for the one and a half hour cooking demonstration. Slamming the venison flat with both pot and hammer seemed to alleviate Morgan’s frustration of the early morning wake up due to the introduction of daylight saving.

Rex Morgan

The venison came from Premium Game Meats in Blenheim ( Morgan thinks  "the shooter" might have come from near Picton). After stressing how scale is important to food presentation, Morgan married the venison with a red pepper mayonnaise, micro greens, olive oil and parmigiano reggiano.

Rex Morgan at City Market

Next to hit the gleaming Gaggenau bench top was a large slab of beef sirloin.

Rex Morgan at City Market

Looking to Italy for inspiration, Florentine steak was next item on the menu. Marinated with lemon and herbs for three days, the finished steak arrived juicy, flavoursome and with mouth filling texture. The sirloin was supplied by Silver Fern Farms in Hawkes Bay.

Rex Morgan is one of New Zealand’s Beef and Lamb Platinum Ambassadors, and it was appropriate for the next dish to feature New Zealand’s woolly food hero. Watched by the class and numerous unofficial market goers, Morgan combined an Alain Ducasse styled pastry top with a very tasty and colourful lamb, tomato and pea filling.

Handing out the pies

Lamb pies

Sirloin steak

Venison Carpaccio

The pies baked, and guests sipped on the wine of the day, a 2009 Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir from Marlborough while Morgan assembled his knife sharpening kit. Use of oilstone and steel was demonstrated including the useful tip – replace the steel with the bottom of a ceramic bowl if this tool is absent.

The class ended on a poignant note when one of the guests praised Morgan’s recipes for being ideal for one person – her kids had long left home and her husband had passed away recently - soul food indeed.

Malaysian Night Market at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

Described as the “Jamie Oliver of Malaysian cooking”, Chef Wan was the undoubted star of the inaugural Wellington Malaysia Kitchen Night Market. A household name in Asia , crowds clamoured to hear him speak about and cook traditional Malaysian food. The packed audience included a very excited Lauren King, who was one of the lucky recipients of Chef Wan's demonstration dish Vermicelli Kerabu.

Chef Wan

Customers at the event

Held in one half of the cramped Opera House Lane, the market was the finale of this years Wellington On A Plate. Wan’s excited commentary (see him in action here), broadcast at full volume, contrasted with the slow moving crowds waiting for their fix of Malaysian cuisine.

Malaysia Kitchen Night Market

Working under intense pressure the chefs from Kayu Manis, Rasa, The Long Bar and other Wellington Malaysian restaurants still managed to serve up delicious char grilled satay sticks, curry puffs, rendangs and gorengs ...

Ganesan Duraiswam from Rasa

Rajah Vellasamy from Kayu Manis

Swa Siong from the Long Bar

A happy customer

...the menus however lacked the real diversity I expected of Malaysian street food. This was a probably a reflection on having only a small number of stands to feed the heaving crowds quickly (the event ran for 3 hrs), with easily identified food.

The fundamental aim of Wellington On A Plate is to attract foodie tourists. Air Asia X ‘s arrival to NZ has seen a dramatic increase in Malaysian visitors to NZ (1300 to 5000 monthly in Christchurch) – no doubt coming for the clean green scenery. Likewise, tourism from NZ to Malaysia has increased markedly. I applaud the organisers of the Kitchen Night Market for getting involved with WOAP for the first time, but there is room to put Malaysian street food on a larger stage, with more variety and enthusiastic crowds in the future.

Happy Feet the penguin, at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

Raw meat, furry tails and live insects were on the menu at a recent Ruth Pretty Catering event. In weather more appropriate for emperor penguins, Wellington Zoo was host to the Ruth Pretty Zoo Safari, part of Wellington on a Plate. Perhaps reluctantly swapping the heated floor of Kamala’s, the swish new zoo venue (named after the zoo's last elephant), the visitors were soon being educated about animal diets in the zoo kitchen.

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Possum tails hang out of bucket at Zoo Safari at Wellington on a plate

Ruth Pretty introducing the Zoo Safari as part of Wellington on a plate

Animal food

Young boy looking at zoo food

Goat legs at the Zoo safari

Slabs of horse meat, goat legs - fur and all, and live locusts were all sighted, but most interest centered on chimpanzee food. Paul Horton, the carnivore keeper said “chimps are pretty much like us, they will happily kill a monkey and share it around”, dispelling any thoughts about vegetarian diets. As well as fruit and veges, the chimps are occasionally fed whole chickens, cooked, to avoid salmonella. Bread used to be part of the chimp diet until Jess, a female, took such a liking to it she upsized to become the largest chimp in the tribe – not the normal way of things in the ape world.

Climatic extremes continued on a short tour of the zoo, taking in Happy Feet the emperor penguin, and Sasa and Sean the sun bears. Happy Feet tentatively looked like coming out and diving into the pool (a zoo first), but after dipping a ‘toe’ into the water, turned around, and waddled back inside.

Happy Feet the penguin

In a similar manner the guests made their way back to the warmth of Kamala’s where a South African high tea awaited.

Food prep at the Zoo Safari at Wellington on a plate

The safari themes were continued with the menu including biltong, hertzoggies, and snoek pate and wait, was that…Dr Livingston I presume?

Zoo Safari at Wellington on a plate

Biltong was on the menu

Diners at Ruth Pretty’s Zoo safari

Top Wine and Rata Trees at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

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Woman in red gumboots plants a Rata Tree at WOAP.

Rata trees at WOAP Crimson Lunch

Gumboots and spades replaced surgical tools at Wellington on a Plate's first environmentaly themed event.

Baby Rata trees (and other native varieties) were dispensed to participants for planting on the site of Newtown's former fever hospital. The assembled crowd who braved the conditions (sunny but cool) were warmed up by french onion soup, part of a Ruth Pretty hamper.

Ruth Pretty serves soup at WOAP Crimson Lunch

Ruth Pretty with two chefs at Crimson Lunch a WOAP Event

Ata Rangi wines including Crimson Pinot Noir further fortified the visitors. Ruud Kleinpaste provided a humorous commentary with his view on ecological leadership in our community before releasing his giant weta among the crowd.

Bottles of Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir at WOAP event.

Guests at WOAP Crimson Lunch, a WOAP Event.

The planting of the young rata trees (supplied by Ata Rangi) continues the six year partnership with Project Crimson. The trees were planted, guests were packed off with gifts, leaving behind the promise of a blush of crimson colour unrelated to the medical history of this Wellington site.

Guests at Crimson Lunch a WOAP event.

Crimson Lunch

Rob Morrison and Burton Silver talking at Crimson lunch, a Ruth Pretty WOAP event.

Helen Masters with Rata Tree at the WOAP Crimson Lunch sponsered by Ata rangi, Ruth Pretty and Project Crimson.

Phyll Pattie and Clive Paton planting a Rata Tree at Crimson Lunch a WOAP Event in Wellington,NZ.

Gift bags at WOAP Crimson Lunch in Wellington.

Organic fruit at Te Mata | Murray Lloyd Photography

Te Mata Wine, Te Mata Cheese, Te Mata Peak may all be names recognizable to Hawkes Bay visitors and residents but Te Mata Orchard less so. Only a stone's throw from the Te Mata Cheesery, the orchard is an organic operation growing  apples, pears and plums. Ian Kiddle, who has hosted me on a couple of occasions exports produce and also supplies the Pure Fresh brand seen in New Zealand supermarkets. The domestic organic market in NZ is worth about $350 million (at last count) and more than half that value is exported. Evidence is mounting the world wants sustainable produce.



Epicurus rediscovered

Epicurus (341–270 B.C.) founded one of the major philosophies of ancient Greece, helping to lay the intellectual foundations for modern science and for secular individualism. Many aspects of his thought are still highly relevant some twenty-three centuries after they were first taught in his school in Athens, called “the Garden.” Epicurus primarily promoted the pleasures of the mind, friendship and contentment - pleasure without pain.  However recent use of the word epicurean links this philosophy to a life frequented by bouts of hedonism   especially food consumption and sex - this pleasure is said to derive from pain i.e  hunger and desire

Epicurean Supplies , a garden in Hawkes Bay,  spans the divide between the ancient philosophy and the recent interpretation linked to food. Indeed perhaps Clyde Potter (owner of Epicurean Supplies) is the modern Epicurus.

Clyde's  disciples in this case are a small permanent staff and a varying band of itinerent woofers. I  imagine anyone who has eaten his organic micro salads, fresh herbs and heirloom vegetables can attest to this. Clyde's jewel- like produce not only provides good health but allows your eyes to feast as well,  bringing a sense of pleasure completely unaccompanied by pain. It is with sad news I learnt of Clyde’s passing recently.

Clyde Potter

different tomatoes being held by person
organic scallopine growing
Yellow organic squash growing
orgainic peppers growing
Organic capsicum



Walnut recipes by Ruth Pretty| Murray Lloyd Photography

Having only eaten walnuts sporadically I was intrigued to find although the nut has culinary use, the shells are used for making dynamite, oil paint, plastics and helping to drill oil wells. I am sure the dynamite discovery must have come from some lateral thinker watching the walnuts 'explode' from their husks before falling to the ground.

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Fresh walnut ripening on tree

The walnuts (roasted) go well with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and Champagne...

Whole Parmiganio Reggiano cheese with cheese straws and champagne.

...but if you desire something tasty on a smaller budget try this salad from Ruth Pretty

Ruth Pretty's pear, celery and walnut salad with honey vinaigrette.

True Earth Organics in NZ | Murray Lloyd Photography

You may have seen the Lawsons True Earth label around town, especially as they distribute carrots, onions, blueberries and pumpkin all over the North Island in plentiful quantity. Situated in Hawkes Bay next to the Gimblett gravels (as branded by the wine industry)  Scott and Vicki have farmed the 100 hectare block organically since 1992.

It seems they have brought organic fresh veges and blueberries very much into the mainstream as the produce can not only be found in the organic supply chain but also in foodie destinations (Moore Wilsons etc) and regular supermarkets.

However you won't see their organic potatoes as the pest psyllid has made it uneconomic to grow them unless dealt with in a non organic way. This is a big loss but really lives up to the the name True Earth.

sorting blueberries

Organic blueberies in factory

Blueberries in factory

Pumpkins being loaded into crate

Pickers with pumpkins

pumpkins being loaded onto a truck

Pumpkins growing in sunshine

Pumpkins growing

Organic carrots on farm

picking organic carrots

Picking organic carrots

loading the carrots onto a trailer

sorting organic onions

organic onions in bags

organic onions being bagged

picking blueberries

picking organic blueberries

Close up photo of organic blueberries growing

Organic blueberries growing

True Earth Organics sign

True earth organics



Hawkes Bay Organic Butcher | Murray Lloyd Photography

Located in Hastings, the Organic Farm Butchery processes and distributes beef and lamb from Ti Kouka an organic farm near Waimarama (they also have some pigs). After photographing at the farm last year  I thought it would would good to see another side of the operation.  The mainstream media have published large quantities of material about farmers markets, local produce and consumers wanting to know where their food comes from.

However thinking more about images of beef carcasses and slabs of meat I wonder if the public is ready for an even closer viewpoint.  While I was photographing, numerous boxes of organic meat went out the door. Nothing was wasted as the bones seen in the trolley were destined for the beef stock at a gourmet food supplier.

Organic butcher

Butchering an organic carcase

Exterior of the organic butchery in Hastings