Vanilla Pioneer departs Vanuatu

murray lloyd November 11, 2015

After 28 yrs of Vanilla production in Vanuatu Pierro Bianchessi has left for Italy, his homeland. An organic chemist, Bianchessi arrived in Vanuatu in 1987 and found the perfect climate for growing vanilla. He established Venui Vanilla and by 1991 demand had increased beyond what he could produce on his own land. Growers were contracted and trained from northern islands in Vanuatu, processing 2000-2500 tons of vanilla each year at the peak of production. Certified organic from 1997, Pierro marketed the vanilla himself at food shows in Europe, NZ , Australia and New Caledonia. Venui Vanilla quickly became Vanuatu’s premiere artisan food producer.

Vanilla needs a dry coolish winter of 7-8 weeks for successful pollination and although this was possible initially the amount of vanilla being processed has now dropped to 2-300kg per year. Bianchessi states this is a direct result of climate change.

Venui Vanilla now also produces peppercorns, turmeric, chillies and ginger and to reflect this has been rebranded Venui Vanilla - Spices of Vanuatu. Venui would have to process five times the amount of peppercorns to replace the value of the declining vanilla crop according to Bianchessi.

New Zealand has strong links with Venui. An Auckland based graphic designer created the cool looking soft packaging and New Zealand’s BioGro Organic Certification was achieved in 2013. This certification also covers the 200 small farmers who supply the company.

A new manager has been found and the company has been sold to LCM, a very established grocery business based in Luganville. A new cold pressed centrifugal coconut oil processing facility is being built as a result of the new investment.

Although departing, Bianchessi was optimistic the organic ethos of Venui will continue. He believes Vanuatu has a good future with food production as it remains naturally organic, the last of the Pacific Islands to be in this state.

Pierro Bianchessi with bags of peppercorns in Vanuatu

Unloading trays of chilies to dry in Vanuatu

Portrait of Pierro Bianchessi in Vanuatu — Portrait of Pierro Bianchessi founder of Venui Vanilla

Passionfruit photographed from above and close up with purple tones in background.

Getting passionate in the studio | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd March 30, 2014

Italian Flavours in Paraparaumu | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd March 2, 2014

Basil grown from seed in full sunshine, Isle of Capri tomatoes freshly plucked from the garden and fresh buffalo mozzarella - Insalata Caprese - It is quite simply one of the greatest pleasures of summer and is one of my favourite dishes . The flavours and textures work together brilliantly - here's to Italian food.

Fresh live clams from NZ to USA | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd February 19, 2014

Working every day of the year, the team at Dunedin's Southern Clams can have an average of 4.5 tonnes of clams ready for market in six hours. In winter the team in the water harvest by torchlight and even have waves crashing over them on occasions. Director Roger Belton started Southern Clams in the early 1980's after his French girlfriend took him to experience the French food culture. Eighty percent of the clams are exported, particulary to the east coast of the USA where the large Italian poplulation need them for Spagetti alle Vonglole. The remaining clams are sold domestically at restaurants, wholesalers and the New World and Pak n Save supermarkets.

Southern Clams take sustainability very seriously even investing in forestry in order to be carbon accountable. They have never harvested their full quota of clams and are contantly looking for new ways to reduce bycatch.

I was just thankful my waders didn't leak.

Clam shells being returned to seafloor from boat.

Portrait of Roger Belton, owner of Southern Clams, standing in sea.

Freshly harvested clams on barge at Blueskin Bay, New Zealand

Fully loaded barge of fresh clams at Blueskin Bay.

Roger Belton, Managing Director at Southern Clams on small outboard boat.

Martinborough Olive Harvest Fest | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd July 8, 2013

Sign advertising Martinborough Olive Festival

Helen Meehan explains Olivo Oil at Martinborough Hotel

Olivo Oils served at Martinborough Hotel.

Guests dining at Martinborough Hotel as part of olive harvest festival.

Peter and Ruth Graham from Atutahi at Tirohana Estate.

Lamb Cutlets poached in Tuscan Blend Olive Oil (from Atutahi) with baby potatoes, cherry tomatoes, gremolata of hazelnut, mint, lemon and parsley.

Peter Graham talks to guests at Martinborough Olive Harvest Festival

Poppies Restaurant, Martinborough, New Zealand.

Margaret and Mike Hanson from Blue Earth Olive Oil, photographed at Poppies Martinborough

A dessert at Poppies Restaurant, Creme Inglesa with Barcelona inspired Trifle .

Jared Gulian with his newly published book Moon over Martinborough.

International Olive Oil Judge Margaret Edwards explains how to taste olive oil.

Guests smelling olive oil at Martinborough Olive Harvest Festival.

Guests tasting olive oil at Martinborough Olive Harvest Festival.

Margaret Edwards helps blend individual oils for the class to take home.

Night Market at Martinborough Olive Harvest Festival.

Visitors at Night Market at Martinborough Olive Harvest Festival.

The Olivo crew at Martinborough Olive Harvest night market.

Ray Lilley of Whiterock Olives holding fresh olives.

Young girl picking olives in morning sunlight.

Picking olives at White Rock Olives in Martinborough.

Picking olives at White Rock Estate in Martinborough.

Nalini Baruch giving cooking demonstration at Lot 8, Martinborough.

Narlini Baruch giving a cooking demonstration at Martinborough Olive Harvest Festival

Orange slices with sea salt and Lot Eight 2013 Aromatic Olice Oil.

Close up photo of hands holding green olives in sun.

From Olives to Oil in 12 Hrs | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd June 26, 2013

Gleaming olive-green Italian made machines greeted me as I was introduced to the factory by Nathan Casey, Operations Manager of Hawkes Bay’s Village Press Olive Oil.

Village Press Olive Oil factory in Hawkes Bay.

500 - 600 tonnes of olives delivered to the factory each season come from 60,000 Hawkes Bay trees and are processed according to the variety of cultivar - Barnea, Frantoio, and Manzanillo are the three I am most familiar with.

12 years ago, Wayne and Maureen Startup started making olive oil under the brand Village Press. Today they are New Zealand’s largest producers of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, processing enough olives to make more than 100,000 litres of the golden liquid each year.

Once the oil is extracted the remaining finely ground by-product is destined for kitty litter and is also being trialled as dairy cow feed (mixed in with other things).

Al Brown, Ruth Pretty and Peta Mathias get their own branded oil from Village Press who bottle, label and pack the oil at the factory. Nathan also showed me newly labelled bottles with a big red heart destined for collaboration with the Returned Services Association.

You can find bottles and boxes of Village Press oil in New Zealand easily enough and the distinctive oils can also be purchased internationally via Amazon and Shopping Moa.

Nathan Casey and Peter Smith from Village Press Olive Oil, in Hawkes Bay

Walnuts in photographed in wooden bowl in studio

Going Nutty in the Studio | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd March 17, 2013

Walnuts photographed in the studio

4 Flavours of Melbourne Food | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd February 22, 2013

One bite of the soft shell crab and avocado roll was all it took to launch me into Vietnamese food nirvana - and I wasn’t even in Vietnam. The crunch, flavour and texture of the roll emanated from Dandelion Restaurant located in Melbourne’s suburbs.

Aside from excellent food, Dandelion restaurant seems to have found an answer to food bloggers ruining the restaurant atmosphere with cameras. The food has already been well photographed by Rob Banks and images are available via pinterest or through very well organised downloadable media packages.

Duck legs, braised with sugarcane, pineapple and chilli Kampot peppered pineapple salad, saw-tooth coriander.

deep fried black sesame icecream with palm sugar caramalized figs

As good as Dandelion was, the other food sensation was the A1 Lebanese Bakery on Sydney Road in Brunswick – at a fraction of the price.

A1 serves up Lebanese style 'pizzas' with toppings of zaatar, halloumi cheese with tomato, and finely minced raw lamb (there were others) in unpretentious but exotic surrounds. The baklava was another highlight. Anthony Bourdain raved about the A1 bakery on his show No Reservations a while back but the prices can’t have been affected.The ‘pizzas’ ranged from $1.50 to $4.50 and one was all I needed for lunch.

This craft beer and wine bar in Moonee Ponds allows patrons to bring their own food or to order in restaurant food from nearby and then eat it with a beer or wine from the premises. The Valley Cellar Dooroffer nibbles, including cheese and cold meat platters, but encourage people to bring whatever takes their fancy - they’ve even installed a BBQ out back. It would be great to see this catch on in Wellington.

Floundering at Waikanae | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd January 20, 2013

Flounder is always on the menu at this time of year. Brother-in-law, Powerful Al usually manages the drag net operation along the beach with any other able bodied person tagging along. Although the net requires two people to drag it, crabs invariably scuttle in and it's all hands on deck to untangle them. The large ones end up as bisque or some crab flavoured dip ( thanks to painstaking work by Al) while the smaller ones are delivered back to the sea. A drag might net a couple of flounder, or even three, and sometimes there are just a few stray herring. After being gutted and scraped, flounder are cooked whole on the barbecue and served up with a wedge of lemon – a very delicate, sweet flavour; yummo.

Promoting NZ Beef and Lamb | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd November 20, 2012

A graphic design exhibit titled Food for Thought caught my eye at Massey’s Exposure exhibition in Wellington. Created by Grga Calic, the posters were a refreshing take on the existing campaign which uses Olympic sports women from New Zealand to encourage young women to eat more red meat. He says the campaign aims at putting glamour back into red meat and focusing on the physiological rather than the physical – brains over brawn.

Although aimed at young women I am sure a wider demographic can identify with improved decision-making and not losing the car keys

The Exposure (now called Blow) exhibition is well worth looking around and is on each year in November . These images have been published with permission from Grga Calic and he can be contacted on 027 3084320 or at grga_nz@yahoo.com

Boutique dairy milking in NZ | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd November 10, 2012

My image of life as a dairy cow reached new highs when I first sighted this delightful milking shed bathed in the early morning light. Owned by an American couple who left the US when George Bush was elected in 2000, the milking operation near Dunedin numbers between 16 and 20 cows.

With a backdrop of faded washing hanging from the roof of the milking shed, a yodel-like call brought the cows running. Once inside the milking shed each cow knew exactly which bay to head for. One cow, who left the property for two years, still remembers which bay was originally hers.

The cows are milked using a bucket system. Before the milk is taken from the cow each one receives individual grooming (to remove muddy patches) and the udders are hand washed with a cleansing solution.

The milk – straight from the cow - has less than 10% of the maximum allowed limit of bacteria found in milk (pasteurised and homogenised) sitting in your supermarket fridges.

With National Radio broadcasting, and a breakfast of local Harraway oats mixed and sweetly scented lucerne the cows looked very contented. As did the customers who could take away milk, cream, ghee, cottage cheese, quark or even a mango flavoured lassi.

If it weren't for your gumboots | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd November 2, 2012

Where would you be...wouldn't be eating Purakanui cockles and you'd be hungry.

Ruth Pretty's Cheese Roll Recipe | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd September 30, 2012

I have even noticed a few much neglected asparagus spears popping up in our garden. However you will need more than a few spears to make the Toasted Asparagus and Swiss Cheese roll recipe from Ruth Pretty's latest book.

Ruth's book was a great project to work on as the food images were complemented by editorial photography, landscapes and photos of garden produce.

Ruth's recipe is a healthy version of the famous Dunedin cheese roll.

Toasted Asparagus and Swiss Cheese Rolls

FairTradeBananas vs EthicalChoice | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd September 15, 2012

I was surprised to see All Good Organics Fair Trade Bananas right at the entrance of one of my grocery suppliers recently.

I thought the move may have resulted from the stoush between the owners of the Fair Trade bananas – New Zealand’s All Good Bananas, and Dole’s Ethical Choice brand. However Chris, the fresh produce manager at the supermarket, said the move was because of a special they were running. Either way it was good to see they sold a lot more Fair Trade bananas from the new location.

To avoid any confusion this is the All Good Bananas Fair Trade brand

I wonder if they are using Fair Trade bananas on Sesame Street

The Best Coffee in Wellington | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd August 17, 2012

At home I have put many beans through the grinder, into the stovetop and drunk usually as a long black with flat milk (I am drinking one as I write this). I have had several bean favourites but these were blown away when I tried the Italia blend from Tony Gibbs recently.

Although his tiny café on the Terrace has been operating since 2001 it has been unnoticed up until now. Maybe this is because the sign overhead remains blank and the café doesn't even have a name.

The lack of a sign was no hindrance to the flow of people coming in and out of the cafe while I was photographing, most of them exchanging greetings with Gibbs while he roasted beans. The beans are roasted in a fully restored Aug Olsen originating in Denmark.

Gibbs has been roasting beans since 1987 when he was trained by George Kepper, an Australian based Russian who consulted several of the big roast companies in Sydney from time to time to correct blends and adjust roasts that were not quite right. The Italia blend was perfected by Gibbs on visits to Kepper in Sydney and has not been altered since 1987.

Of the beans Gibbs purchases for his café he rates the Columbian Medellin Supremo as the best (and the most expensive), supplied by John Burton, New Zealand’s primary importer of beans for smaller roasters.

Gibbs’s blends, aside from the Italia include TG Pearl, Indian Mysore (named after the Southern Indian province where it comes from) and Brazilian which is made especially for the drinkers at Taste Café in Kelburn, one of two cafes Gibbs supplies (the other is Salvation in Newtown).

Located in Wellington’s corporate heartland (the PM drops in for coffee and the Treasury is right opposite) it is great to see someone putting taste firmly on the bottom line.

Stop Press: The cafe has been renamed Old George (after the Russian who taught Tony Gibbs how to roast the beans) and is still producing the best coffee in Wellington

Old George coffee beans with new packaging in Wellington.

The Good Oil on Bali | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd July 17, 2012

“Please bring organic olive oil and flour if possible…” Having booked numerous accommodation suppliers over the years, I was impressed by this unique approach from Swasti Eco Cottages in Bali. After leaving Common Sense Organics with the Bali bound bottle of Moutere Grove Organic Olive Oil I looked forward to handing it over to the Swasti kitchen once we got to Ubud.

Arriving at Swasti we quickly made a tour of the organic garden. The range of produce included turmeric, mulberries, egg plants, tomatoes and some Avatar lookalike goats.

Entrance to Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud, Bali

Organic tumeric at Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud, Bali

Organic Anglo-Nubian dairy goat at Swasti Eco Cottages in Bali

After a couple of days exploring the wonderful Ubud surrounds I finally got to photograph Pa Putra (one of the Swasti kitchen staff) holding the Moutere Grove oil in the dining room. In return for the organic oil we received two free desserts.

Pa Putra from Swasti Eco Cottages holding Moutere organic olive oil from New Zealand

Other highlights were the squirrels darting around the treetops, the frangipani flowers draped around our room, frogs croaking through the night, very friendly staff and the abundance of fresh produce on which we dined.

Interior of Rama Room at Swasti Eco Cottage in Ubud, Bali

Breakfast at Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud,Bali

However it will have to be the next visit for the 3 in 1 chocolate massage, black rice icecream or a special drink of organic raw cacao, banana and cashew milk.

Special drinks blackboard at Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud, Bali

Although it was left behind the Moutere Grove Organic olive oil will feel right at home.

Vegan Pavlova Recipe at WOAP | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd August 17, 2011

“The world’s first vegan pavlova!” claimed Professor Kent Kirshenbaum, while giving a presentation at Ruth Pretty’s unscheduled WOAP event. He thought he may have also produced New Zealand’s first vegan meringues, but was surprised to find Angel foods (an Auckland-based vegan supplier) had beat him to it. Kirshenbaum, a New Yorker, was in New Zealand to help celebrate the 2011 Year of Chemistry.

Luxuriating in the space the commercial kitchen provided, Kirshenbaum and his assistant Anne McBride took us on a world tour of mysterious ingredients. First was the Chilean Quillaja Saponaria- its soapy properties can be used to make extra head on low alcohol beer, fire fighting foam and of course the vegan meringues. The inner bark of this tree has also been linked to methane reduction in dairy cows and lowering of cholesterol in humans.

After being served an unusual warm syrupy drink by Ruth Pretty, the Professor introduced us to Salepli Dondurma the Anatolian stretchy ice cream. The stretch ingredient in the ice cream is called salep and is derived from rare Turkish orchids – so rare the Turkish authorities have banned the export of this plant extract. I found out my syrupy drink was made with salep – apparently sourced in Wellington!

Not deterred by the unavailability of salep Kirshenbaum and McBride zapped us up a topping for the meringues using versawhip, xanthan gum, sugar and raspberry sauce. Xanthan gum also has links with our dairy industry as it can be derived from whey, the by-product of cheese making. We got to eat the raspberry-topped meringues (recipe is below) – the dessert had good texture but the herbaceous taste of the meringue had me thinking I’ll stick to egg whites.

The Professor had clearly done his research on New Zealand, with his next topic being the barbecue. Obsessed with the smoky flavours of the BBQ, but unable to use one at his apartment (“I’d be arrested in New York if I started one”), Kirshenbaum was drawn to analyse liquid smoke. He deduced it is probably safer to use than untreated-wood smoke due to the carcinogens being removed. Could this be the end of this bastion of New Zealand culture?

The perfect steak? The exact time for a fillet of salmon? Precise times for cooking an egg? Try out sous vide cooking (precise temperature control). How about reductions without heat, centrifuges and rotovaps - it all sounds like science fiction but science in the kitchen is already nearby - think Martin Bosley, Ferren Adria, and Hesten Blumenthal. For more about molecular gastronomy check the Experimental kitchen collective headed up by the very engaging Professor Kent Kirshenbaum.

Recipe for vegan meringues

Mix 60ml water with 3ml quillaja saponaria
Add 5ml lemon juice and 15ml Campari
Beat to form soft peaks, then add 65g granulated sugar one spoonful at a time until stiff peaks form. Sift in 40g confectioners’ sugar and quickly beat to disperse.
Spoon meringue on to baking sheet lined with parchment paper
Bake at 225F for 1 hour, then turn oven off and let meringues cool for 1.5hrs.

Eating fresh Eel in Wellington | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd May 2, 2011

Screaming Roll is the name Jeremy Wilson gave his eel inspired Californian roll I photographed at the Shinobi Sushi Lounge in Wellington. Wilson was importing processed eels from Japan but was on the lookout for a local supply of fresh eels to marinade in his kabayaki method. The flavoured imports limited Jeremy's menu options and he has since sourced shortfin eels from the Levin Eel Factory. Although it seems more sustainable to source local produce, the harvest of a diminishing population of eels in New Zealand raises sensitivities of a different kind.

Although both the longfin eel and the shortfin eel are threatened, research shows the shortfin is New Zealand's most tolerant native fish species (this might not be saying much). At the restaurant Wilson also tried to sway his diners to eat more sustainable fish by selecting less fashionable species such as warehou, moki, gurnard and pilchard.

Restaurants are at the coalface of changing public attitudes about where food comes from. It was good to see restaurants like Shinobi Sushi Lounge supporting the idea we have to be more aware of what we are eating (and giving us great food).

Shinobi Sushi Lounge is now closed.

Organic fruit at Te Mata | Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd April 17, 2011

Te Mata Wine, Te Mata Cheese, Te Mata Peak may all be names recognizable to Hawkes Bay visitors and residents but Te Mata Orchard less so. Only a stone's throw from the Te Mata Cheesery, the orchard is an organic operation growing apples, pears and plums. Ian Kiddle, who has hosted me on a couple of occasions exports produce and also supplies the Pure Fresh brand seen in New Zealand supermarkets. The domestic organic market in NZ is worth about $350 million (at last count) and more than half that value is exported. Evidence is mounting the world wants sustainable produce.

Walnut recipes by Ruth Pretty| Murray Lloyd Photography

murray lloyd March 30, 2011

Having only eaten walnuts sporadically I was intrigued to find although the nut has culinary use, the shells are used for making dynamite, oil paint, plastics and helping to drill oil wells. I am sure the dynamite discovery must have come from some lateral thinker watching the walnuts 'explode' from their husks before falling to the ground.

The walnuts (roasted) go well with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and Champagne...

Whole Parmiganio Reggiano cheese with cheese straws and champagne.

...but if you desire something tasty on a smaller budget try this salad from Ruth Pretty